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http://www.askoxford.com/concise_oed/design?view=uk
The 2nd year was a first chance for us to look and see what kind of projects and work we could be when we specialise. It was an interesting take at how everyone interprets project titles differently to their own specialist way or working.
When we first walked into the show, the room was full of colour and energy given off by everyone’s work. This show was built up of work from each different specialist. It was beaming with colour, texture, energy and lots of different designs. Everyone had a different way of interpreting the project title which was ‘Neighbourhood colour’.
Three Main Themes:
I have always thought from the beginning that i would be interested in going into stitch, mainly because i feel its very diverse in what you can apply to it. You can work with a lot of different materials, fabrics and go into a lot of different areas of work. I have always been very hands on in the way i work, i like the idea of going into the stitch area.
Some of the designers at the show whose work really stood out to me was Kendra Beitzel’s work which was something which drew my attention as soon as i walked in the room. I have a thing for the wrapping of objects, i also was drawn by the mix of pastel/metallic hint of colours which were so light and delicate in the way they had been dyed and strung together to create shadows in its sculptural form. She was looking into the stacking of teacups and saucers, which she translated through linear drawings, into her simple modern design, which is exactly that.
I also really liked the work of Joanna Fowles, who looked at derelict industrial warehouses around Hackney. Joanna was looking more into the surface of textures and translating them through small designs, which really interested me in the way she was translating those textures through different media’s of drawing. It was delicate and worked with her project title and are of interest.
While walking through the exhibition, i was really impressed at the quantity and quality of everyone’s work. It was a good way to look at what each specialist are could take us into. I am still going with my gut feeling of going into stitch and seeing what it has to hold for me. Going to exhibitions like this is a really good chance for us to see the kind of work which we can produce, it gives me a lot of inspiration and motivation to work hard for what and where i want to get in my working process.
Moluche (Hand made Alpaca textiles)
Alpaca in the textiles industry is more broadly known as a certain type of hair fibre from peruvian alpaca species, which is a form of llama. It’s mainly bred in South America. Even though llama’s are not bred as beasts of burden but are bread for their special fibre. Which now has modern day replacements fibres, such as mohair, icelandic sheep wool some high quality english wools.
Moluche has three main aspects of their company,
I have chosen to look at Moluche textiles, because in the sustainable fashion market, I was interested in their work with southern american traditions, ways of combining the tribal traditions, combining their historical techniques through textiles as well as putting a modern day twist onto the designs. Also a more important factor to their company is how they are constantly thinking about the environmental issues of manufacturing.
Moluche uses south american textiles from Peru and Chilie made from small villages whose natural ethics and traditions are to produce hand woven textiles. They have incorporated two different tribes Aymara and Quechua. Alpaca wool goes through a very long process to create yarns which have subtle irregularities in them which is one of there key characteristics to the woven pieces. The yarn is then washed and dyed using vegetable dyes, Even though the natural alpaca fibre comed in 52 or more classified colours in peru. The vegetables dyes used are from locally grown herbs. They are left to dry in the sun, then stretched and interlaced into the looms, where they are then woven into the designed fabrics.
I am looking into naturally dying fabrics, how they incorporate it into the process of creating their garments and how eco friendly it actually is. Whether it is actually as good as chemical dying and whether its really going to take off in the commercial market.
“The textile industry continues to be one of the most damaging industries in the world, second only to the chemical industry”
In the dyeing world there has been some cleaning up in certain processes, such as electrochemical, which re-uses dye chemicals, rather than wasting them by discarding them. This then creates less chemical pollution into the environment and is another way of recycling dyes for the development of low-impact dyes. Even though chemical dyes can produce many different colours in a whole spectrum of shades, you know that they are chemically produced. Where as with natural dyes they are a lot more authentic, their colours varies depending on which vegetable you use and the strength of the dye you are using. So you can almost get the same result as chemical dying.
Naturally dyeing textiles, is a better way forward into the future, we are trying to preserve our environment and be kind to our selves, but will it ever take off in the commercial world...
One aspect of using natural dyes is that it can be a lot more expensive, sometimes people don’t want to pay more for something which is good for the environment and sustainable but has the same purpose as something commercially produced and cheaper. It sometimes depends on where your ethics lie, do you have a guilty conscious to what your are doing to the environment around you?
Naturally dyeing materials gives a whole different perspective and outlook upon the design.
Pro’s and Con’s of using natural dyes:
If you were to compare a company like Moluche with say a company similar in the design field, like Cath kidson. Cath kidson is a popular commercial chemically produced company, which has made a fortune on its designs and patterns. Those patterns and designs which they make for interior and fashion are not eco friendly, but they are at the higher end of affordable prices. If Moluche were to produce a similar pattern on their products which one would you chose?
To most people its not how things are produced, its what looks good to the eye. Everyone’s main concern is what they look like, buy or have on show. A lot of people don’t like the idea of change and trying something new which isn’t as popular as something which is on the commercial high st. Everyone follows a trend. The sustainable market is on the rise but its getting everyone’s attention to a good change which can be made popular by us.
If a company like Cath Kidson could make a small change into using more sustainable materials, then other company’s would follow. Using vegetable dyes or natural fibers could be a beginning.
I think vegetable and plant dying could have a very positive affect on the commercial market, I would now consider twice about where and how my materials are made. Dyeing naturally comes out with a more subtle and interesting outcome to the material. Its unique and beautiful in every single design. This is what Moluche is doing with their handmade textiles, even though they are at the higher end of the market they show a lot of detail and delicacy to each design.
Blythe House.
A visit to Blythe House, well after our eventful journey there, because of the trains running once every half hour at Olympia. we finally made it.
My first impressions on the building were miss-interpreted, it really looked like a mental institution or a prison, it was a very secure environment we were entering. Every door was under lock with a swipe card, there was security to get into every area, which really puts into prospective how much of a privilege this really was to be able to visit and see what this archive holds.
We had a brief talk through the history of what the archive had to offer in terms of textiles, interiors and fashion. Then we were shown some of the archive books which they had laid out for us to at look at with great care, these books themselves tell there own stories but what’s inside is even more interesting.
I have never been subject to anything like this before. It was really fascinating to be able to go through all the different time periods of fashion and fabrics, and being in contact with some samples which were very prestigious to there time.
These books could show you what was most popular of their time, how many were sold and how much they were sold for. It was interesting to see at what time, which fabric’s were popular. You could see the age in all these fabrics as some were older than others. Even though they are being preserved a lot of the samples have slowly lost their colour through the years. It was interesting to see what patterns have made a real difference and stuck through to modern day and others which have slowly drifted out as patterns change they have been replaced.
I learnt a lot being able to see how delicately things were taken into detail and how much technology has changed. There was a lot of the hand drawn and painted patterns which were beautifully designed. That made me think a lot about my approach to my drawing collection.
They had colour charts, wheels and books about the ‘in’colours of the season at the time. It’s interesting to see what colours have stuck around and made a big impression on the industry, but also what colours have slowly gone ‘out’ of fashion. Obviously every signature colours plays a roll in fashion, but there are different shades and tones to what make an impact.
I have taken a lot away with me from my visit to Blythe House, it has been a breath of fresh air to my perspective on my table theatre collection. I have looked at a lot of different patterns colours and designs, this will be inspired into my project and way of thinking. It was also a completely new experience and something i can always go back to for references and articles relating to future projects.
